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By The Classicist, on May 15th, 2012
 Smith-Corona 'Speedline' vintage portable typewriter, 1939-1941 Lean, Clean Writing Machine.
In my opinion the most beautifully designed manual typewriter, Smith-Corona's 'Speedline' eschewed gratuitous streamline streaks its name would imply in favor of a sleek, pared-down sensual shape. (A typewriter seems quaintly anachronistic as I tap out these words on a laptop. Regardless, elegant design is always relevant.) Clean and compact, a classic had been created, but it was too good to last. Industrial design, not immune to fashion, had styling fads, and by 1942 surface texture and details were tacked on, proving more is less.
— The Classicist
By The Classicist, on May 7th, 2012
 Jackets on proper wooden coat hangers.  Conventional coat hangers vs. thicker maple wood hangers. Motivated by Kirby Allison's Hanger Project, I finally set out to acquire a decent set of coat hangers, but at a more affordable price.
After too many years of random department store hangers of varying quality, none of which were properly shaped to support a man's jacket. I found these on eBay. Okay, they're not KAHP, but they are beautifully contoured solid maple with antiqued brass-finish wire. (Minor downside: 17" wide, I would have preferred 18"; still… a bargain.)
The hanger's thick rounded shoulders will take up much more closet space…but your jackets and sports coats will appreciate being well hung.
— The Classicist
By The Classicist, on April 18th, 2012
 David Beckham (Image pinched from "The Awl" blog.) David Beckham knows a thing or two about clothes, even if one does not always agree with his choices. But he's got his button-down shirt exactly right; a soft, comfortable collar. Hold the starch.
If a button-down collar were intended to be stiffened it would be constructed with collar strays. (You can see the conflict there.) Starched button-down collars are a contradiction to the shirt's intended character.
Just as the sport coat (hacking jacket) morphed into conventional street wear, it remains relatively informal. Same with the button-down. It's a sport shirt that found acceptability as the least formal of all dress shirts. Consider its origins: A polo player's shirt, collar points buttoned down to prevent flapping.
Two button-down absolutes: (and a third 'maybe')
1) No starch. (Certainly none in pin points and oxford cloth, and only the lightest – if you must – in broadcloth.)
2) Never worn with a suit, other than a sports suit (as in hunting/shooting; and in that case we're talking tweeds.) OK with a single-breasted flannel blazer. Not OK with a double breasted blazer, considering its naval uniform heritage.
3) I've heard that one should not wear a bow-tie with button-downs. That's a little iffy: The only legitimate cause for complaint I can see is too much visual clutter (buttons and bows) around the face, but hardly a crime.
This is not snobbery…. It's about sensitivity to what goes with what. Sports clothes go with sports clothes. Formality with formality.
– The Classicist
By The Classicist, on April 9th, 2012
 (Altered) 'Portrait of Madame X' (1884) – John Singer Sargent, American X-rated Beauty.
First shown at the 1884 Paris Salon, the portrait caused a scandal. The public was shocked at the suggestive nature of a fallen dress strap; therefor the painting was deemed indecent. As soon as the Salon ended, Sargent took his painting back to his studio and repainted the strap in its upright position. (Was this to save his reputation or that of Madame Gautreau, the now x-rated beauty?) He later re-titled the painting 'Portrait of Madame X'.
The slightly askew right bodice no longer makes sense in relationship to its repositioned strap….the latter looking more like second-rate retouching. Sargent's revision lacks the conviction of original.
As The Classicist, I would love to see the painting restored to its original intention, (and a better painting anyway.)
A contemporary photo shows 'Madame Gautreau' in original version. With that as reference, I asked my photoshop expert to do a little restoration just to satisfy viewers' prurient interests. (Top image.)
–The Classicist
By The Classicist, on April 2nd, 2012
 Photo: Daily Mail (UK) Morgan LifeCar: First hydrogen-powered sports car, showcased in 2008 at Geneva motor show. Magnificent neo-retro styling. In the short term LifeCar may go into production with a small internal combustion engine rather than fuel cell. (Is the 'LifeCar' name too cute and cuddly?)
–The Classicist
By The Classicist, on April 2nd, 2012
Although The Classicist is pretty much stuck with its URL classicmenswearjournal.net, many beautiful things beyond clothes and shoes are begging attention. I've tweaked the description to include "Other Beautiful Stuff." This allows me to post images and comment on virtually anything that pleases The Classicist's eye–photographs, books, architecture, interiors, graphics, industrial design, objets d'art, etc. (Luxe or humble–usually classic in some aspect or another.) First item to fit the bill: Morgan's 'LifeCar'.
-The Classicist
By The Classicist, on March 26th, 2012
 Zelli rust suede loafers, Red socks, grey flannel Zelli rust suede penny loafers, Lands' End red wool socks, Façonnable grey flannel trousers. (Antique shoe trees.)
By The Classicist, on March 12th, 2012
 Green silk pocket squares St. Patrick's Day: March 17
By The Classicist, on October 1st, 2010
 A vintage Liberty paisley foulard scarf. Liberty Paisley Scarves. What could be more timeless, more classic, more English? Above photo: White pin-point oxford cloth shirt; Polo Ralph Lauren cotton cream-colored polo; Vintage Liberty silk paisley neckerchief (cardinal red, slate blue, apple green.)
 Cary Grant wearing a paisley foulard. Cary Grant's foulard; quite possibly a Liberty paisley scarf.
From my point of view, Liberty silk scarves are vastly underappreciated. Softer vibe; more romantic, evocative, English. Harking back to British days in India. Unlike Hermes, which continues to issue clever, updated scarves, the old hand-blocked Libertys are a thing of the past — still reasonably priced — but when they're gone — they're gone.
May be found in better Vintage clothing boutiques, and online auctions.
In browsing eBay, (search words: "liberty paisley silk scarf') many have been categorized as women's scarves. There is nothing flowery or inherently feminine about most paisley prints. By dropping the "liberty" search word, and with some judicious browsing you may find similar paisleys. Another option: Try Google's Shopping search. (Access to numerous online sources.)
You need to pay attention to sizes. Here's a rough guide: (Each approximately square.)
• Pocket square: 15" – 19"
(Anything 12" or less is very dinky — and likely to disappear into pocket.)
• Neckerchief: 22" — 28"
• Foulard: 32" — 36"
The rest is up to your own sense of color, pattern, and dashing savoir-faire.
– The Classicist
By The Classicist, on October 1st, 2010
 Liberty paisley silk scarves from The Classicist's collection.  Liberty paisley silk scarves from The Classicist's collection.  Liberty paisley silk scarves from The Classicist's collection.  Liberty paisley silk scarves from The Classicist's collection.  Liberty paisley silk scarves from The Classicist's collection. Paisley Forms and Fractals
The Paisley or Paisley pattern is a droplet-shaped vegetable motif of Indian and Persian origin. Scholars have variously suggested the original form represented a mango seed, kidney, or cypress tree. Another interpretation; a sprouting seed symbolizing the life force. The patterns also remind me of fractals. Could the original designers have had an intuitive affinity for such complexity?
From an 18th or 19th European designer's point of view, paisleys not only offered an exotic theme but a liberating freedom to explore any variety of shapes — flights of fancy released from constraints of other-wise conventional design and representational subject matter.
To the present day, paisleys have remained an inexhaustible source of inspiration. Timeless classic design.
– The Classicist
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